Replacing brake lights is cheap and easy to do, most of the time, with a basic set of tools. Newer models have switched to LED lights that last much longer, but older vehicles still feature bulbs that need to be changed out for new ones. Think of how much time you spend with your foot on the brake, and then consider that the brake light bulbs have to be illuminated during that entire period. Burnt Out Bulbīy far, a burnt out bulb is one of the brake light problems that crops up the most, and it’s easy to understand why. Check out these four common conundrums that cause your brake lamp to light up and how you can solve them. There are certain issues that crop up over and over again when diagnosing why a vehicle’s brake lights are not working, which makes it that much easier to figure out what’s wrong with your brakes when you tap the pedal. If there is continuity, then double check that the fuse is good.ĭo the suggested voltage and continuity tests and let us know what you find.Car brake light problems don’t have to be head-scratchers. There was one report where there was no sign of a broken wire, but when the wires were tugged, one did pull out, and that was the one causing the symptoms. Try tugging lightly at each of the wires going into the boot from the car body side. If there isn't continuity, I'd go back to the wire bundle in the flexible boot. (The back up light switch on the manual transmission is sometimes more problematic and it's wires are more exposed.) And there is the wiring harnesses and connectors, but unless the car had been in a collision, or some repairs were done where the wiring harnesses are located, I doubt these are faulty, with the exception of the section in the flexible boot. There is the inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) but it's rarely a problem. If there isn't continuity, it means there could be a break in the circuit. If there is a low continuity, then it would appear the wiring is okay. My guess would be less than 20 Ohms made up of the wiring, inhibitor switch, and the bulbs, perhaps somewhat more, but not in the hundreds of Ohms. As above, measure the resistance (continuity) between the fuse panel blade receptacle that had no Voltage and a good ground. Then change the transmission to Reverse (ignition switch at OFF or ACC). With the parking brake set, transmission in Park, ignition OFF, measure the resistance (continuity) between the fuse panel blade receptacle that had no Voltage and a good ground. If so, note which has the 12 V, and which does not. With fuse #18 removed, the transmission in Park, and the ignition switch at ON, there should be 12 V (or close to it) at one of the two fuse panel blade receptacles for fuse #18, and no voltage at the other. With fuse #18 removed, the transmission in Park, and the ignition switch at OFF, and the back-up bulbs installed in their sockets, there should be no voltage at either of the two fuse panel blade receptacles for fuse #18. To be sure we're on the same track, does the car have an automatic or manual transmission, and if automatic, 4-speed or 5 speed? (I'm assuming 4-speed automatic for the time being.) The absence of Voltage at the back-up light sockets does suggest a break somewhere in the circuit between the fuse and the sockets. There's differences depending on whether the car has a manual (MT), 4-speed automatic (AT) or 5-speed automatic (5A), but otherwise it's relatively simple.įurther troubleshooting would probably mean checking for voltage at various points along the way when the transmission lever is in R (key ON), starting at fuse #18, and working back.Ĭlick to expand.When the fuse is installed, and if the fuse is good, then even if there's only 7 V at the fuse, there should be something like that at the light sockets with the transmission in Reverse. I've attached the wiring diagram in case that might help. Incidentally, are any other rear hatch electrical functions not working properly, e.g., high brake light, license plate lights, rear wiper (either not running or not "parking" properly), rear defogger (might be hard to detect in warmer weather). Were you able to examine the wires in the body-gate boot individually? In some cases the break is not at the visible end of the boot but just slightly up into it where the wires are bundled more tightly. This could lead to proper "checking" of the wrong fuse! On my car, it's reversed from the actual fuse panel arrangement. It's possible to check for voltage at both sides of the fuse using a fine test probe (or pin), just to be sure power is getting through.Īlso, the diagram of the fuse layout can be confusing. The fuses in the dash fuse panel (such as #18) have small openings above their pins. You've pretty well covered what, in the past, has been a reported cause.Īre you sure about the fuses? Did you check them with an Ohmmeter, or just visually?
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